IF BUKHARIAN WALLS COULD TALK: HOW WE CELEBRATED SUKKOT IN CENTRAL ASIA

 

HERITAGE

Walking through Jamaica Estates and Fresh Meadows during Sukkot, surrounded by vibrant sukkah booths in my neighbors’ yards, I am inspired by the powerful statement that building a sukkah conveys: we are here, and our traditions endure.

I’m eager to share how our ancestors celebrated Sukkot in Central Asia—a journey revealing our essence, our origins, and the rich heritage we continue to carry forward. Imagine the golden autumn of Bukhara, Samarkand, or Tashkent. The brisk mountain air breathes life into the narrow streets of the Mahalla, where our ancestors’ courtyards come alive with joyous festivities. Long before the modern pop-up booths and prefabricated walls our grandparents built sukkot under Central Asia’s open sky—not merely as temporary shelters but as vibrant sanctuaries of memory.

Wrapped in radiant Suzani tapestries and shaded by fragrant willow and reed skhakh, these courtyards exuded the aroma of freshly baked non and shimmering osh plov, where faith beautifully intertwined with home.

Historically, Bukharian Jews thrived in bustling urban centers like Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent. Their Sukkot celebrations, deep religious observances, symbolized ethnic identity and resilience. For eight days—from Tishrei 15 to 23—they celebrated this Feast of the Tabernacles, culminating in joyous Shemini Atzeret.

In Bukharian homes, multi-generational unity flourished around cherished open-air courtyards (havli). The mud walls, with windows facing inward, created sanctuaries of togetherness. Rather than erect solitary structures that could attract unwanted attention during political restrictions, families cleverly crafted semi-permanent or collapsible sukkot within the havli. Their sukkot, notable for size and unique decorations, showcased their creativity and spirit.

Utilizing the region’s abundant flora for roofing (skhakh), Bukharian Jews created organic coverings from woven reed mats (chiy), interlacing dried stems, grasses, and river reeds with willow branches, grapevines, and poplar leaves after harvest. The entrance sparkled with interwoven branches and flowers, forming a stunning arch.

Inside these sukkot, Central Asia’s rich artistic traditions flourished, adorned with vibrant Suzani embroidery and exquisite Ikat silk textiles (abrbandi). Hand-woven silk or wool carpets added to the ambiance. In preparation for the holiday, Bukharian Jews preserved fruits and vegetables, such as melons, watermelons, grapes, apples, and pomegranates, framed with silk ribbons and incense. This vibrant décor mirrored the grandeur of local courtly reception rooms, enhancing the festive experience.

Behind wooden gates, sheltered from the outside world, Bukharian Jewish fathers and grandfathers passed down holiday songs to their children. A particularly favorite song of Bukharian Jews during Sukkot was sukkah ve-lulav le-am sgula. Every nail driven, every tapestry hung, and every blessing recited testified to their courage, sacrifice, and unwavering devotion.

During the Soviet anti-religious campaign, tightly-knit households in the Mahalla courageously shared hidden sukkot, upholding traditions despite state-imposed bans on religious gatherings. These private havens allowed Bukharian families to create sacred spaces away from public scrutiny, fostering continuity of rituals across generations.

Sukkot is filled with heartfelt prayers, including the four traditional blessings over sacred plants: etrog (citron), lulav (palm branch), haddas (myrtle), and arava (willow). Despite the historical challenges of procuring etrog and lulav in landlocked Central Asia, trade networks along the Silk Road connected Bukharian Jewish merchants to Iran, Afghanistan, the Ottoman lands, Eretz Israel, and the Caucasus, ensuring the arrival of valid citrons for the holidays.

The Central Asian autumn harvest foods played a vital role in the festivities. Meals inside the sukkah featured seasonal delights—stuffed grape leaves and vegetables (dolma), rice with meat and dried fruits (oshi palov), baked flatbreads, and luscious local melons. Families gathered in these temporary huts to eat, pray, and remember the Exodus of the Jews from Egypt together.


Dr. Robert Pinkhasov, PhD, in “The Bukharian Jews: Religion and Traditions,” highlights unique customs, such as bringing a beautifully adorned armchair into the sukkah, delicately covered with an elegant veil and graced with sacred books. This Kise Ushpizin (chair of the spiritual guest) embodies warmth and spiritual connection. Differences in holiday prayers further